Akris... Albert Kriemler has designed his first-ever handbag collection for Akris, and his Spring clothes served as a well-considered minimalist canvas upon which to launch it. A few coats and dresses were made from leather that was scissored into narrow trapezoids, then re-glued for a geometric effect. But...
Salvatore Ferragamo... Ferragamo announced this summer that it would be replacing designer Cristina Ortiz with Massimiliano Giornetti, who currently heads up the company’s menswear. Before her departure, though, Ortiz had the no-doubt difficult task of completing a Spring collection. She smartly decided to stick to...
MaxMara... The military push has reached MaxMara for Spring. Elsewhere, it might be rugged, politically pointed, or bound for summer festivals, but here it’s aimed at different territory: the domain of the grown-up city woman. There’s nothing wrong with that, of course. Olive and khaki and the detailing...
Iceberg... The theme of Iceberg’s Spring collection? Mickey Mouse on safari. The cartoon mice that appeared as emblems on loosely knit sweaters and as a jacquard on a miniskirt seemed to please the children in the Saturday afternoon audience tremendously, but how a grown woman might rationalize such a purchase...
Gianfranco Ferré... “Fluid architecture” and “decorated minimalism.” Those were Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi’s talking points backstage at Gianfranco Ferré. Sounds tricky, but the collection, the duo’s third for the house, was their lightest and least encumbered so far. Working...
Luella... Luella Bartley’s girl has calmed down and smartened up for Spring. Where for the past few seasons every dress had been multicolored, flower-printed, beribboned, buckled, or frilled up in various pop-ironic ways, for this outing her clothes have become almost straightforward, in a mid-sixties...