Jil Sander

Women buzzing to and fro in neat-to-the-body jackets, sheer shorts, bodysuits, tailored catsuits, and formfitting coats, equipped with Velcro-fastened flat boots and handbags. What was this about? In the words of creative director Raf Simons: “Women who have a target, and go for it.” That...

Maurizio Pecoraro

Maurizio Pecoraro had the dusty pales that have become a theme on the Fall runways. He trotted out a flurry of Mongolian lamb furs. He even did a mannish suit—-a really sharp-looking one, in double-breasted gray flannel with flaring, cuffed trousers. In his own subtle way, this designer usually...

Blumarine

Restrained, quiet, minimal sportswear? The idea of that ever happening at Blumarine is as about as easy to imagine as Silvio Berlusconi taking holy orders. This runway is one of Milan’s last holdouts for women who demand full-on good-time dressing with a cheerful disregard for polite...

D&G

The wood-cabin set and video images of snow-covered peaks were all the clues you needed, but if you had any doubt you were in for an après-ski extravaganza at D&G, the first look settled it: Natasha Poly came striding out, all legs in a red-and-white snowflake sweater bodysuit complete with...

Basso & Brooke

Sign up for the fashion industry, see the world. Bruno Basso and Christopher Brooke’s search for inspiration took them on a two-week trip down the ancient Silk Road to fabled Samarkand, where East originally met West millennia ago. It was a high-risk endeavor (they had to travel with a bodyguard),...

Issa

If one is to judge a label by its front row—which is, after all, the point of the front row—what on earth to make of Issa? Its prime seating section proudly showcased the likes of Peaches Geldof and Pippa Middleton, sister of Kate, girlfriend of Prince William. In other words, English girls...